What to Expect During a Roof Replacement

A roof replacement happens fast — on most homes, the old roof comes off and the new one goes on in a day or two. But a lot happens in that short window, and most of what determines how long your new roof lasts is hidden under the shingles once the crew leaves. Knowing what a proper replacement involves helps you prepare your home, ask good questions, and recognize quality work.

This guide walks through a typical asphalt shingle roof replacement on a northern Illinois home, from the first inspection to the final walkthrough. Metal and steel roofs follow a similar sequence with different materials. For an overview of what we install, see our roofing services page. If you're still deciding whether you need a new roof at all, start with our checklist of signs your roof needs replacing.

Step 1: The Inspection and Estimate

A reliable roof estimate starts on the roof and in the attic, not in the driveway. A thorough contractor will:

• Measure every roof plane and note the pitch, since steep roofs take longer and require more safety equipment.
• Count existing layers. Many older homes have had a second layer installed over the original roof. That affects tear-off, disposal, and whether the decking can be properly inspected.
• Check the decking for soft spots by walking the roof, and look at the underside from the attic for water stains, rot, or daylight.
• Inspect flashing and penetrations — chimneys, skylights, plumbing vents, exhaust fans, and walls where the roof meets siding.
• Evaluate attic ventilation, including soffit intake vents and ridge or roof exhaust vents.
• Look at gutters, fascia, and soffit, since problems at the roof edge often need to be addressed at the same time.

You should receive a written estimate that spells out tear-off, materials (including underlayment, ice and water shield, drip edge, and ventilation — not just shingles), how decking repairs will be handled, permits, cleanup, and warranty information. If an estimate only lists "remove and replace shingles," ask what else is included.

Step 2: Choosing Materials and Color

For most homes, the decision is between architectural asphalt shingles and metal or steel roofing. We install GAF and Owens Corning shingle systems as well as metal and steel roofing, and our guide to metal roofing vs. asphalt shingles walks through the trade-offs for our climate.

Color is worth more thought than most people give it. Look at full-size samples outside, in daylight, next to your siding, trim, and brick. A roof is a large, long-term part of your home's appearance, and shingle colors look noticeably different on a small chip than they do across an entire roof.

Step 3: Permits and Scheduling

Most full roof replacements in northern Illinois require a building permit, and requirements vary by city, village, and county. We pull all required permits as part of every job — it's not something you should have to handle yourself.

Scheduling depends heavily on the weather. A responsible crew won't tear off a roof with rain in the forecast, and extreme cold, high winds, or icy conditions can push a start date back. Asphalt shingles also need warmth to seal properly, which is one reason spring through fall is the most common roofing season in our area. Winter roofing is possible, but it takes extra care and flexibility.

Step 4: Preparing Your Home

A little preparation keeps your belongings safe and helps the job go smoothly.

Outside the house

• Move vehicles out of the garage and driveway. Material deliveries and a dumpster or trailer need room, and debris can fall near the house.
• Clear the perimeter. Move patio furniture, grills, planters, and yard decorations well away from the house.
• Protect plants and landscaping close to the house. The crew will use tarps, but delicate plants can be covered or trimmed back.
• Mark sprinkler heads, septic lids, and anything else the crew should avoid driving or stepping on.
• Let your neighbors know. Roofing is loud, and a heads-up is appreciated.

Inside the house

• Take down wall hangings on upper floors. Hammering and tear-off send vibration through the framing, and pictures, mirrors, and shelf items can fall.
• Cover items stored in the attic. Dust, granules, and small debris can fall through gaps in the decking during tear-off. A plastic sheet or old bedsheet over stored belongings helps.
• Plan for pets and kids. The noise can stress pets, and the work area around the house isn't safe for children or animals.
• Make outdoor outlets available if your contractor needs power, and keep the garage accessible if they ask.

Step 5: Tear-Off

On day one, the crew sets up tarps around the house, protects landscaping, and positions a dumpster or trailer as close to the roof edge as practical. Then the old shingles, underlayment, and damaged flashing come off down to the wood decking.

Tear-off is the loudest and messiest part of the job. It's normal to hear heavy scraping and debris sliding down chutes or tarps. A good crew only removes as much roof as it can dry in — cover with new underlayment — the same day, so your home is never left exposed overnight.

Removing the old roof completely, rather than layering over it, is almost always the better approach. It lets the crew inspect and repair the decking, install proper ice and water protection, and avoid adding extra weight to the structure.

Step 6: Inspecting and Repairing the Decking

With the old roof off, the decking — the plywood, OSB, or older board sheathing the shingles are nailed to — is fully visible. This is the most important inspection point of the job. Common findings include:

• Soft or rotted decking along the eaves, where ice dams and overflowing gutters have soaked it
• Water damage around chimneys, skylights, and vent pipes where flashing had failed
• Delaminated or sagging panels in areas with poor attic ventilation
• Gaps between old board sheathing on older homes

Damaged decking has to be replaced before the new roof goes on. Nailing new shingles to soft wood compromises the whole system.

Step 7: Drip Edge, Ice and Water Shield, and Underlayment

Before a single shingle goes on, several layers go down that do much of the real work of keeping water out.

Drip edge is metal flashing installed along the eaves and rakes. It directs water off the roof edge and into the gutters instead of letting it wick back onto the fascia and decking.

Ice and water shield is a self-adhering waterproof membrane installed along the eaves, in valleys, and around penetrations. In northern Illinois, this is critical. When ice dams form and water backs up under the shingles, this membrane is what keeps that water out of your attic and walls. Our ice dam guide explains why the eaves are so vulnerable in our climate.

Underlayment covers the rest of the roof deck. It's a secondary water barrier beneath the shingles and protects the decking while the roof is being installed.

Step 8: Flashing

Most roof leaks start at flashing, not in the middle of a shingle field. That makes flashing one of the most important — and least visible — parts of the job. Key areas include:

• Step flashing where a roof meets a wall, such as at dormers or a second story, woven in piece by piece with each course of shingles.
• Chimney flashing, including counterflashing that laps over the base flashing to shed water away from the joint.
• Pipe boots around plumbing vents, which are a very common leak point as rubber seals age.
• Valleys, where two roof planes meet and a large volume of water concentrates.
• Skylights and exhaust vents, which need flashing appropriate to the product.

Reusing old, worn flashing to save time is a shortcut to watch out for. If you're curious where leaks tend to start, our guide to common causes of roof leaks covers each one.

Step 9: Installing the Shingles

Shingles go on from the bottom edge up, starting with a starter strip along the eaves, then course by course toward the ridge. Two details matter enormously here:

Nailing. Each shingle has to be fastened in the correct location with the correct number of nails, following the manufacturer's installation instructions. Nails placed too high or driven crooked can let shingles blow off in high wind or void manufacturer coverage.

Alignment and exposure. Straight courses and consistent exposure aren't just cosmetic. They're how the shingle system sheds water the way it was designed to.

Step 10: Ventilation and Ridge Cap

A roof replacement is the best time to correct attic ventilation. A balanced system brings cool, dry air in through vents in the soffit and lets warm, moist air out near the peak through ridge vents or other exhaust vents.

Proper ventilation helps prevent ice dams in winter, reduces heat buildup in summer, limits moisture and mold in the attic, and helps shingles reach their expected lifespan. If your soffit vents are blocked or damaged, it's worth addressing them at the same time — see our soffit and fascia services.

Finally, ridge cap shingles are installed along the peaks and hips, finishing the roof and covering the ridge vent.

Step 11: Cleanup and the Final Walkthrough

Roofing creates a lot of debris, and cleanup should be thorough:

• All old roofing material hauled away
• Tarps removed and landscaping checked
• Gutters cleared of granules and debris
• A magnetic sweep of the lawn, driveway, and beds to pick up stray nails

Then walk the job with your contractor. Look at the roof from every side of the house, check that flashing around chimneys and walls looks clean and tight, and ask any questions you have. At Littlefield, the same crew that installed your roof walks you through it.

After Your New Roof Is On

• Check the attic after the first heavy rain. It's a quick way to confirm everything is performing as it should.
• Walk the lawn before mowing. Even after a magnetic sweep, the occasional nail can hide in thick grass.
• Keep your paperwork. Save your contract, permit, product information, and warranty documents together.
• Understand your warranty coverage. Manufacturer warranties generally cover defects in the materials. Workmanship — how the roof was installed — is covered by the contractor. Ask your contractor to explain both, and note that a workmanship warranty is only as good as the company standing behind it.
• Keep gutters clean and watch for ice dams in winter.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a roof replacement take?

Most full roof replacements on a standard northern Illinois home take 1–2 days. Larger homes, steep or complex roofs, significant decking repairs, or weather delays can add time.

Can I stay home during a roof replacement?

Yes. Most homeowners stay home. Expect a lot of noise, especially during tear-off, and keep kids and pets away from the work area. Anyone who works from home or naps during the day may want to plan around the loudest hours.

What happens if it rains during my roof replacement?

A good crew watches the forecast and only tears off as much roof as it can dry in the same day. If weather moves in unexpectedly, exposed areas are covered with underlayment or tarps before the crew stops work.

Will my gutters be removed during a roof replacement?

Usually not. Most gutters stay in place, and the drip edge and underlayment are installed to direct water into them. If fascia is rotted or gutters are damaged, that is a good time to repair or replace them.

Do I need a permit for a roof replacement?

Most full roof replacements in our area require a permit, and requirements vary by municipality. We pull all required permits on your behalf as part of the job.

How We Handle Your Roof Replacement

Littlefield Siding has replaced roofs on northern Illinois homes since 1986. Every project starts with a free inspection and a written estimate that explains exactly what's included. We install GAF and Owens Corning shingle systems and metal and steel roofing, pull all required permits, and use our own crew — no subcontractors — from tear-off to final walkthrough.

We'll also tell you honestly if you don't need a new roof yet. If a repair will do the job, we'll say so.

Start With a Free Roof Inspection

Thinking about a new roof? Request a free inspection and estimate or call (815) 636-6446.

We replace roofs throughout Loves Park, Rockford, Machesney Park, Roscoe, Belvidere, Poplar Grove, and communities across northern Illinois.